Pyer Moss - Spring Summer 2020
Ok, let’s talk about the Pyer Moss SS20 show, also known as “Lesson 3: Sister” in the American, Also collection! While I do want to discuss some of the pieces, I more so want to focus on the tone, message and inspiration of the show; specifically, how it makes me feel, how it makes us feel. Casey Gerald, author of There Will be No Miracles Here, opens the show with the telling of a story of a slave, facing Massa, about to be whipped. She says, “the Lord has shown me the way…and someday, we ain’t never gone be slaves no more.” At the end of the tale, you get a sense that you’re about to experience something overwhelmingly and lovingly, Black.
Next, “The Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drenched in the Blood” takes us through a medley of music ranging from gospel to rap; Anita Baker to Cardi B. Even if you aren’t very familiar with Kerby Jean-Raymond before watching the show, like I was, you not only get a sense of his aesthetic; but also a peek into his love for Black people and Black culture.
The thing I love most about this collection, as well as Kerby Jean-Raymond himself, is how proudly and unapologetically Black they are. The name, American, Also, is in itself a powerful statement of fact: You (white people) brought us here; we built this country, we created American culture with our music, our lives, our beautiful Blackness, all of which you’ve tried to destroy or steal. When we protest and mobilize and resist, you tell us to “go back to Africa!” Well, guess what, we’re American also, and it’s all because of you! In interviews, Kerby mentions that his inspiration for this collection was the Black American cowboys and Rock & Roll music, which was originated by Black people, specifically citing Sister Rosetta Tharpe as the Godmother of the genre. The looks reflect that. There are pieces that include style lines to show the shape of guitars. Others have piano key detailing. Many of the silhouettes feel very 60’s and 70’s inspired – Motown-esque even. Jean-Raymond also included pieces from his Reebok collection and all I have to say is: I very much would like the Vector Robe (preferably in black) & you can throw in the “Glory” sneakers as well!
Artistically, Kerby Jean-Raymond fascinates me. Some of his ideas feel familiar to me, as if there’s some kind of kinship. In a September 2019 interview with Hypebeast, he said that he didn’t want the show to feel too rehearsed. “I don’t want anything to feel too staged and too polished. I want everyone to be their authentic selves and [like] not look like they’re acting.” That statement resonated with me as a creative. I don’t appreciate when things are too prepared or over-rehearsed, because then the final piece doesn’t feel as…spontaneous and natural as it should. While some rehearsal is obviously necessary, too much can often build pressure, resulting in a desire for perfection and some degradation of authenticity.
After learning “Lesson 3,” I was compelled to dive deeper into the world of Kerby Jean-Raymond. I needed to know more about this man, his vision, his aesthetic, inspiration and even his work ethic.
I’m officially a fan and follower.
Photo Credit: pyermoss.com
